HFB Salutes: Martha Gellhorn

Born in St. Louis, Missouri in 1908, Martha Gellhorn began her career as a journalist in 1927. In a long career that broke new ground for women, she covered the Spanish Civil War, World War II and the Vietnam War. With her constant focus on harm to civilians, her reporting was considered a morally courageous model. During World War II, she stowed away on a hospital ship in the D-Day fleet and went ashore as a stretcher bearer. In addition to writing numerous novels, her work appeared in Collier’s, Atlantic Monthly and the Guardian. She was also Ernest Hemingway’s third wife, a description she did not particularly care for as she had “no intention of being a footnote in someone else's life”. Interviews with Gellhorn were sometimes granted on the condition that Hemingway's name not be mentioned. Indeed, the “another” in her travelogue, Travels with Myself and Another: A Memoir refers to Hemingway. Despite her two marriages and numerous affairs, Gellhorn remained a staunchly independent high flying bird.

Following her death in 1998, Salon.com published a profile of Gellhorn by Kevin Kerrane, co-editor of an anthology of literary journalism which included works by Gellhorn. Kerrane reflects on his occasion of actually meeting Gellhorn in preparing for the anthology and ultimately sending Gellhorn a copy of the published anthology with a thank you note for her part:

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But her biographical note in the book included a poison passage: "Gellhorn's war reporting began in Spain. She traveled there with Ernest Hemingway, whom she later married. (He dedicated 'For Whom the Bell Tolls' to her.)" I had mentioned Hemingway because he was featured in the anthology, not only in Lillian Ross' profile but in an early story of his own from the Toronto Star. Still, I had overstepped my acquaintance with Gellhorn -- and worse, I had distorted the crucial facts of a daring journey. She had traveled to Spain alone, with only a knapsack and $50.

"I was very cross," Gellhorn wrote, "that you insisted on putting in Hemingway and the information was false. I did not go to Spain with him; anything but. I made my own way with some difficulty crossing the border of Andorra on foot. I dislike terribly this harping on Hemingway and as far as I know you do not mention the marriages of other authors in your book. So if there is another edition please remove all that."
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In 2007, the U.S. Postal Service immortalized with a “forever” stamp five American journalists who risked their lives reporting some of the most important events of the 20th Century, among them only one high flying bird: Martha Gellhorn.

Note: Reading Kerrane’s entire article on Gellhorn is highly recommended. And to hear a short interview with Gellhorn about the Spanish Civil War, click here for BBC 4 Radio live stream.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

Where's my bus stop?

Traveling recently with the original High Flying Bird, I was reminded of the beauty of taking public transportation, to which she introduced me and of which she is the world’s biggest fan. Just stopping off for lunch in one of your favorite cities and don’t want the hassle of renting a car or the high price of a cab? Take the bus! Going to a big football or baseball game and don’t want to miss the National Anthem while looking for a parking spot? Take the bus! Just going out to your favorite bar and don’t want to drive home after tossing back a few? Check the bus schedule! And when you’re riding the bus, trolley or train, who knows who you will meet or what interesting sites you may discover along the way! Whether you are a traveler or a resident, a city’s public transportation system can be a High Flying Bird’s best friend.

We all know about the wonderfully extensive, inexpensive and easy public transportation systems of the big East Coast cities like New York, Boston and Washington, D.C. Chicago, San Francisco and Atlanta also have fairly well-developed systems. And Dallas is trying. But what if you find yourself in Sacramento or Phoenix or Oklahoma City or even Tuscaloosa, Alabama, and want to take a train, bus or trolley? Try checking out one of these sites before you go: http://www.publictransportation.org/default.asp or http://www.apta.com/links/, both of which list various public transit agencies by state. An Airport Flyer stops at all of the big hotels in downtown Austin, for example, as well as the University of Texas and other major landmarks, and then takes riders straight to the airport, with all of the great restaurants easily accessible in between! If Des Moines, or anywhere else in the seven-county region that makes up the Heart of Iowa, is your destination, just call the Heart of Iowa Regional Transit Agency 24 hours in advance and they will provide on demand, door-to-door service for a recommended $3.75 donation!

As Clear Plastic Bag has pointed out, we don’t necessarily subscribe to the green point of view on all fronts, as the hypocrisy within the movement is rampant. But if that’s your thing, then in addition to the convenience, cost-savings and adventures you may find on the route, by all means grab a bus to reduce your carbon footprint, as well!

-- The Commish

If you ain’t got no money take your broke ass home

I don’t know about you, but I’m strapped for cash in a major way these days. The tax man is knock, knock, knocking on my door, and I’ve overspent on a few mini-trips here and there. But I’m itching for more adventure and, like Timbaland, ain’t got no money. What is a high flying bird to do in this situation? Well one thing you can do is travel (har har) to your local public library and read about the places you would like to visit. I’m currently reading Shutting Out the Sun: How Japan Created Its Own Lost Generation by Michael Zielenziger which is a fascinating study of the “hikikomori”. The hikikormori are a group of more than one million Japanese men who have completely withdrawn from society. They refuse to go to school or work and completely isolate themselves in their bedrooms, usually in their parents’ tiny apartments. It’s a unique look at Japanese culture. I’ve just started the book, but so far it is fascinating. And it feels like a mini-trip to Japan whenever I pick the book up. All without spending a penny! No matter what your financial situation is, you can always travel through reading. Okay this is starting to sound like a public service announcement so I'm shutting up now.
-- Haiku Hannah

Want a Seat Assignment on AA?

American Airlines announced this morning that it is adding a new, “customer-friendly” aspect to its price structure. A customer-friendly AA? Here at High Flying Bird, we look at all of AA’s actions with well-deserved skepticism and find this one particularly disingenuous.

Passengers on AA will now have a new economy fare from which to choose. To keep up with the Southwests of the industry, AA is offering an option with no seat assignment. Those passengers will board in Group 7, 10 minutes before departure, and will be welcome to take any open seat. Passengers with seat assignments who arrive late may find their seat already taken, in keeping with the current 10-minute rule. According to an American spokesman, “This gives our customers the best of both worlds, while allowing us to compete more fairly with other airlines offering deeply discounted fares.”

High Flying Bird’s take? This is just another way for American to charge passengers for services that used to be included with the price of a ticket, such as meals, snacks and headphones, and now seat assignments. What do other High Flying Birds think? Will you pay what will now be extra for a seat assignment? Will this move by AA ultimately be seen as genius, or a foolish mistake?

-- The Commish

Proud to be a dumb puppy

I was telling High Flying Bird that I have found that no one loves traveling more than the Australians and how, in my experience, they are always eager for the rest of the world to visit their country. For the past 10 years I have had an open invitation from one Australian or another for a free place to stay if I ever find myself down under.

Because they are a traveling sort, it isn’t surprising that Robert Schneider, a 26 year-old electrician from Adelaide, would be on the beach in San Diego. What is surprising and absolutely sickening is that he would be beaten with a skateboard and thrown into a fire pit by a couple of transients. Just last week Schneider was awakened from a medically-induced coma, which he had been in since the February 27 attack, as doctors performed skin grafts and surgeries on his burns and injuries.

Maybe because our country is just a “dumb puppy” (thank you, Johnny Depp), that also means we’ve got lots of unconditional love to give and it isn’t surprising, then, that Americans have gotten together to help raise funds for Schneider’s recovery. If you happen to be in San Diego, a fund-raising Australian barbeque will be held on April 13 from 2 to 6 p.m. at Bondi Bar & Kitchen, 333 Fifth Ave. For the rest of us, checks can be made payable to “Friends of Robert Schneider” and sent to Outdoor Travel Adventures, c/o Robert Schneider Campaign, PO Box 60084, San Diego, CA, 92166.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

If I could be anwywhere at the moment

While I perused Salon.com last week, looking for my daily dose of Left Coast histrionics, I saw a personal ad (with accompanying sassy-date-me-I’m-super-fun photo), that said “if I could be anywhere at the moment: Playing the Roseland Ballroom with my new band”. And, I thought, if could be anywhere at the moment where would I be? An immediate, overwhelming answer did not jump to mind, which I found concerning. There are places I love, such as Paris, but clearly no place so soul-satisfying that it hangs in my sub-conscious, prepared to leap onto my tongue should someone ask if could be anywhere at the moment where would I be.

Perhaps I am just that content where I am at the moment, or, more likely, I still haven’t found what I’m looking for. Not that I ever really need an excuse to travel, I feel I have a mission now. But I suppose never finding the answer could be just as rewarding as finding it.

Curious as to where others would want to be, I googled the phrase “If I could be anywhere at the moment” and there were 10,400 responses. The following are the first 15 that appeared (omitting the overtly cheesy such as "having intellectual, physical and emotional banter with someone that I share chemistry with” or “in the kitchen, cooking something hot and sweet for the woman who loves me.")

“If I could be anywhere at the moment…”

"Somewhere off the coast of Tahiti in a small fishing boat."

"I would be on a beach and seeing the ocean for the first time."

"I'd be in Cameroon, or Mali, or Colombia.”

"In Fiji with my new boyfriend discussing what to do next.”

"Ski mountaineering in Alaska, or in a jazz club in New Orleans."

"Simultaneously in the Black Rock Desert and in New York City.”

“Seeing U2 live in concert."

"On a pilgrimage to Dollywood. In a convertible. With a cowboy. An urban cowboy?" ...

"The Uffizzi - can't get enough of Caravaggio.”

"Japan would be fun."

"Colorado, in the mountains."

"Somewhere in the Georgia Mountains."

"Having dinner in Paris or exploring Vietnam."

“In Arles, Bouches-du-Rhone, France. It's the perfect place for an art colony, if only I could convince other artists ...”

“Anywhere but here.”

If you could be anywhere at the moment, where would you be?

-- Clear Plastic Bag

Winter Spring Summer Fall

The Associated Press is reporting that Three Rivers Press has pulled the plug on a book by two former concierges at Chicago's Four Seasons Hotel because the two authors/concierges had signed confidenitiality agreements with the hotel. Apparently the two were going to reveal all on the inner workings of the luxury hotel and its various celebrity guests. Somebody please find those two a loophole because I think that would be a great read.
--Haiku Hannah

Fun "Local" Activity Alert: San Francisco

A friend has just had a new novel published, Serpent Box (HarperCollins), and will be making an appearance at Booksmith (1644 Haight Street) in San Francisco on April 3rd at 7 p.m. If you’re in San Francisco on that Thursday, go hear author Vincent Carrella read from his new novel, then, feeling quite literary and local hipster, stroll a couple of blocks to San Francisco’s famed Cha-Cha-Cha for dinner.

Planning suggestion: Cha-Cha-Cha doesn’t take reservations and is usually packed, but they do let you put your name on the waiting list and return later, so maybe pop into Cha-Cha-Cha before Booksmith, check out the wait, get your name on the list, and then head to Booksmith.

Learn more about Serpent Box.

Learn more about Cha-Cha-Cha.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

It's the most wonderful time of the year

I’d say at least 75% of my office is out this week on vacation for spring break. I don’t understand the standard vacation group mentality. By that I mean the people who hoard all their vacation days for spring break week and the week between Christmas and New Year’s. I am of a completely different mindset. I don’t want to waste my vacation time when the office is deserted and peaceful and nothing is going on. I want to be out when everyone is here stressing out and creating work. (I know some of you will say that you have no choice if you have the same vacations as your children. Hey, you were the one who chose to have children.) I have been enjoying the quiet all week. I’ve caught up on all my work and have been able to spend a lot of quality time contemplating my NCAA tournament brackets. Because it’s tournament time people, which means it’s the hap-happiest season of all!!!

--Haiku Hannah

Freedom to Travel Action

The State of Florida is looking to suspend the license of American General Life Insurance for violations of the state's Freedom to Travel Act. The insurance company rejected an application by U.S. Congresswoman Debbie Wasserman Schultz (D-FLA) to increase her life insurance because she had future plans for international travel. Wasserman Schultz did not specify on her application where she intended to travel, but American General called and spoke with her husband who indicated that she might be traveling to Israel.

Application denied.

Nice.

This is the first time the state's insurance commission has sought to revoke a license for a violation of the Freedom to Travel Act.

Look at Florida! They may just be getting something right!

-- Clear Plastic Bag

The Facebook Phenomenon

This morning I opened my weekly American Airlines NetSAAver Fares email and was greeted by a new offer from AA. “Start Sharing Your Travel Adventures! American Airlines is now on Facebook,” the email declared. “Keep your friends updated on your travels around town and around the world!” In and of itself, that seems to this High Flying Bird to be a useful add-on to one’s Facebook page, if one had one, as that is exactly what we try to do here on our blog. It’s the Facebook aspect that I found disconcerting.

Exactly how young and hip is AA trying to be? I clicked on the link from the AA email to the Facebook sign in page and you have four choices for “occupation”: in college/graduate school; at a company; in high school; and other. Then, the page specifically asks for your work email. Is Facebook for young professionals or for students? Either way, I’m afraid it’s not for me, as I did a quick search for others from my high school and found only three people from my class of 1986.

But that’s ok, because I find the whole Facebook and MySpace page phenomenon to be scary. Exactly how much do we want people surfing the internet to be able to find out about us? Eliot Spitzer’s “date” from the Mayflower hotel had to quickly scrub her MySpace page last week after her real name was released by the press. What if you apply for a job and your prospective boss routinely does a search of MySpace and Facebook pages to find out the real story about potential hires?

What do other High Flying Birds think about these social networking sites? And how about LinkedIn, a professional shared-contacts site that I have gotten numerous invitations to join from people my own age? Useful tool or potential trap for the unwary?

-- The Commish

You're Getting Very Sleepy

Until I’m six feet under
Baby I don’t need a bed
Gonna live while I’m alive
I’ll sleep when I’m dead
- Bon Jovi

If I don’t get some sleep
I’m going to die and/or kill someone
- Clear Plastic Bag

My sister and brother-in-law bought a condo just one street over from Austin’s famed bar-lined Sixth Street. Very hip. Very cool. Very loud. It wasn’t so much the shouting of drunken revelers at midnight, but the 3 a.m. “bottle toss” that put a big, sleepless damper on their real estate acquisition. Their building is separated from Sixth Street by an alley running in the back of the bars lining the street, and at about 3 a.m. every morning, a trash truck runs down that alley. Thousands of empty bottles are tossed into the truck as it stops at each and every bar’s dumpster, every breaking bottle resulting in sleepless nights and splitting headaches. I was determined to solve the problem, and with a little research discovered the Marpac White Noise Machine Sleep Mate Sound Screen 980 Dual Speed Sound Conditioner.

This thing is miraculous. With a sort of whirring, whooshing air sound it drowns out any irritating noises around you. Unlike sound machines that produce rain sounds or maybe ocean sounds, you don’t focus on the sound, rather, it just seamlessly blends into your consciousness and before you know it you’re unconscious, drooling into your pillow. Moreover, unlike earplugs, it also lets you hear any important sounds you would want to hear.

After using it at their condo, I became addicted and now bring one with me when I travel. For rooms on the busy street side, hotels undergoing renovations, new travel companions whose charms do not include their snoring, or for rooms with “honeymooners” just one thin wall away, the Marpac can save a trip from sleepless disaster. The machine is just 3.25 inch high and 5.75 inches in diameter, and while the company says it weighs 1.6 pounds, it feels much lighter than that. Or maybe that’s just me, light on my toes after a restful night sleep. In any event, it tucks conveniently into a suitcase or overnight bag.

Thanks for the fist-pumping, rock ‘n roll anthem, Jon, but I’ll sleep when I turn on my Marpac White Noise Machine Sleep Mate Sound Screen 980 Dual Speed Sound Conditioner.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

It's like this and like that and like this and uh

I’m all over the place today so please bear with me.

There is one place I will never, ever travel to in my life. It is exactly where Silda Spitzer was standing yesterday and Monday. I would have told him if he wanted a woman standing next to him when reading his prepared statements about cheating on me with a call girl, he could go hire himself one.

The BBC has a report that at least 50 people in southern India have damaged their sight by staring at the sun hoping to see a vision of the Virgin Mary. Uh people, your mother wasn’t kidding when she told you not to stare at the sun or you’d go blind. In fact, I’m sure the Virgin Mary gave that same sage motherly advice to Jesus back in the day.

Hey Southwest, here’s a wild idea. Why don’t you take the $50 you have started charging your passengers for a third checked bag and get your crappy planes inspected, mkay?

-- Haiku Hannah

A Southern St. Paddy's

With St. Patrick’s Day just around the corner, you might be saying to yourself that it’s time for a visit to Chicago or New York City, but High Flying Bird is here to tell you that the best St. Patrick’s Day parade this side of Dublin is in Savannah, Georgia, of all places! http://savannahsaintpatricksday.com/ Billed as the second largest St. Patrick's Day parade in the United States, Savannah is expecting 400,000 visitors for this year’s 184th annual celebration. But be sure and go this weekend, as the parade will be held on Friday, March 14th, at the direction of the Catholic Diocese of Savannah—the 17th falls on the first day of Holy Week this year.

While you’re in Savannah, don't forget to go by The Lady and Sons restaurant for some wonderful low-country cooking by Paula Deen and her boys. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to see Paula there. . . And High Flying Birds certainly won’t want to miss the world-famous Lady Chablis at the Club One Cabaret. If there’s time, you might also want to take a Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil tour to see the Mercer House, the Bird Girl statue from the Bonaventure Cemetery (which now resides at the Telfair Museum of Art), and other sites made memorable in John Berendt’s novel. For the Girl Scouts out there, Savannah is also the birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low.

Savannah is a wonderful Southern town in which all High Flying Birds will feel right at home!

-- The Commish

Lost that Budget Hotel Loving Feeling

My sister and I were in Dallas this weekend to help my parents pack up and move out of the home they’ve lived in for 31 years. While taking a very brief break on Sunday, we read a travel article on Puerto Vallarta in the Dallas Morning News. The writer took a clever approach by comparing “Old Puerto Vallarata” to “New Puerto Vallarta”. He stayed in the old part of town, while his sister and brother-in-law stayed at the new Four Seasons Resort. His article compares and contrasts money spent; his entire trip, including airfare, hotel, and food was still $200 less than just one night at the Four Seasons Resort.

In describing his Hotel Pescador, he says the inexpensive hotel was “quiet and clean” and while my sister and I both agreed that it probably was, we also agreed that certain hotels had forever spoiled our budget travel buoyancy. And no matter how inexpensive or how clean, we are always left a little deflated. For me, it began with the Fairmont Miramar in Santa Monica, California, and for her it was the Hotel Le Saint James in Montreal.

We still stay at the cheap, clean hotels, but no matter how cheap or how clean, that youthful bargain glee is gone unless the down comforters are sky-high, the linens crisp and white. A turn-down service perfectly timed to one’s evening return and *sigh*.

What hotel has forever spoiled your budget hotel glee?

-- Clear Plastic Bag

It is time for you to stop all of your sobbing

The travel insurance company Access America commissioned a recent telephone survey that found 63% of families in the U.S. said they aren’t taking a spring break trip this year because of economic issues. Well boo freaking hoo. If that’s the worst economic issue an American family has to face they should be counting their many blessings. Do you have a roof over your head and food to eat? Then shut your whining pie hole and get happy. We never went anywhere on spring break when I was growing up. In fact, we often didn’t even get a spring break because the school board would take the days to make up for too many snow days earlier in the year. So cry me a river American families. You’re getting no sympathy here.

--Haiku Hannah

Walking in Memphis

Historian David Cohn once wrote, “The Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of The Peabody Hotel… If you stand near its fountain in the middle of the lobby… ultimately you will see everybody who is anybody in the Delta…” (http://www.peabodymemphis.com/) The fountain in the middle of the lobby is also the playground of the world famous Peabody Ducks, who live in grand style in their rooftop Royal Duck Palace and arrive and depart the hotel lobby via a red carpet to the tune of John Phillip Sousa’s “King Cotton March.” A trip to Memphis isn’t complete without a drink in the lobby bar while watching the ducks perform their march.

On my latest trip, however, in addition to seeing the ducks again, I was determined to find out why so many people rave about Memphis barbecue. I had been told by many that the Rendezvous (http://www.hogsfly.com/), located in a downtown alley across the street from the Peabody, was the place to go. The dry ribs (ribs smoked in a dry rub) there apparently epitomize Memphis barbecue. In addition to the dry ribs, however, closing on Sunday and Monday nights is also a tradition, which were the nights I was there. So on to plan B, Beale Street.

I had been assured that I could find wonderful barbecue on Beale Street, two blocks south of the Peabody, so after my drink in the lobby, I happily headed that direction, looking for “Pig,” which advertises itself as “Pork With an Attitude!” (http://www.pigonbeale.com/) Along the way, I got a beer from one of the many beer windows on Beale, through which the bars sell drinks to passers-by ambling down the closed-off street. I also checked out a number of souvenir shops, where I purchased Elvis postcards for the family at Tater Red’s (http://www.taterreds.com/copyright.html) and a BB King CD for me, chosen specially by the proprietor of Memphis Music(http://www.bealestreet.com/clubsshops/memphismusic.htm).

At Pig, I ordered the pork dinner, because Memphis, like the rest of the southeastern United States, is famous for its pork, as opposed to Texas’s brisket, barbecue. The dinner came with beans, coleslaw and a piece of white bread. The coleslaw was excellent—very light dressing with more of a horseradish base than straight mayonnaise. The beans and pork were a disappointment, however. The beans tasted like they had a vegetable soup base, and had no fire to them. The barbecue sauce was skimpy and the pork was. . .well, pork. After dinner, I saw a beer patio, just a shack, really, that advertised “Big Ass Beer.” So I stopped for one of those and chatted with the bartender about the redevelopment of the Pyramid sports complex, the Mississippi undertow and the West Memphis 3. Then one last Bud Light at BB King’s Blues Club (http://memphis.bbkingclubs.com/) and it was time to head back to the Peabody.

The next night it was raining heavily and the temperatures were plummeting, but that didn’t stop me from heading back to Beale Street to the Blues City Café (http://www.bluescitycafe.com/). I ate in the bar, which was very cozy on a cold and wet night. This time, I had the ribs, as Blues City is known for the best wet ribs (ribs are smoked in sauce) on Beale. The pork was as tender as advertised; it just fell off the bone, but again, the barbecure sauce was skimpy and it was pork, and I now know I’m not an aficionado of pork barbecue. The coleslaw was passable—not nearly as good as Pig’s—but the beans were truly fantastic, full of smoky, maple flavor. In addition, instead of a slice of white bread, I got a thick slab of Texas toast. According to the menu, however, “You ain’t been to the Blues City Café unless you’ve had fried pie alamode!” I was only to happy to oblige. It came in its own cast iron skillet, with the butter in the bottom still sizzling. The crust was light and doughy, almost like a beignet. Outstanding!

On my next trip to Memphis, I’m going to have those dry ribs at the Rendezvous just so I can say I’ve done it, and I’ll focus on the music a little bit more. In addition to my drink in the lobby of the Peabody with the ducks, however, I’ve also added the fried pie at Blues City Café to my list of things to definitely not miss!

-- The Commish

Tripping in the City of Lights

On the first day of my recent trip to Paris, I tripped, fell, and sprained my ankle. But I had on a scarf and beret, so I looked fantastique while doing so. Thanks to the “pharamacie” by my hotel and ibuprofen, athletic tape (you know when they tape a football player’s ankle on the sideline and then send him back out to play and you think “seriously?”, I’m here to testify that it really works), and the pain-relieving qualities of red wine, I was seriously side-lined for only a day, I just moved slowly and took frequent rest stops for the rest of my trip…err…vacation.

But, while hesitantly and painfully climbing and descending narrow stairs to bathrooms in cafes, shuffling over cobblestones through narrow streets, and heaving myself up a large step to the shower in my hotel room, I began to ponder how a truly physically disabled person could get around in Paris.

Others have pondered this as well, as there a variety of resources for “handicap travel” in Paris. The following will hopefully be a start for anyone who might need a little assistance maneuvering the City of Lights.

Access in Paris. This website is based on content from previously published “Access in Paris” guidebooks, the most recent being 1993. A new guidebook is now being written and is expected for an early 2008 publication. Per the website, the authors are working with the Association des Paralysés de France (www.apf.asso.fr) and with a group called Mobile en Ville (www.mobile-en-ville.asso.fr) who, among other things, have mapped the pavements in the whole of Paris for their surface and the height of any ramped curbs. Visit http://www.accessinparis.org/.

Global Access News. This website has a wealth of information on travel around he world, but, if interested in Paris in particular, click on their “Travel Archives” which will lead you to articles outlining wheelchair accessibility of Paris attractions, hotels, etc. Visit http://www.globalaccessnews.com/.

David Lebovitz’s “Accessible Travel in Paris”. As I understand it, Lebovitz is an ex-pat living in Paris. His website is devoted to things primarily food-related in Paris, and, in that regard, he has some particular tips such as when making reservations let the restaurant know in advance that you have special needs. He also recommends for foodies, Place de la Madeleine which is flat and where the sidewalks are wide. Per Lebovitz, here “you'll find fine foods shops clustered around the place like Fauchon, Hédiard, Ladurée,, Maille, and La Maison du Chocolat easy to explore. Most of the shops have access and the nearby Lavinia wine store has an elevator and a rest room.” Visit his website for all his recommendations.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

I ain’t going out like no punk bitch

I’m heading out tomorrow afternoon for a weekend getaway. I will be hitting the road to beautiful Asheville, North Carolina. I always try to make sure I have the proper accessories when I travel - shoes, jewelry, belts and purses. But even if I forget some of those, there is one accessory that I always pack (pardon the pun) when I hit the road alone - my Smith & Wesson .38 special revolver. Nothing makes me feel more secure than having my gun in the car.

Before you get all up in arms (again, pardon the pun), let me assure you that I have the proper handgun carry permit which allows me to legally carry a loaded gun in my car. And believe me, I earned that permit. I spent an entire weekend, and a considerable amount of money, several years ago taking the proper class to obtain my permit. The instructor was a chauvinist redneck named Cletus. On Saturday, I had to endure an entire day of class which consisted of Cletus “lecturing” about pretty much every subject that was pissing him off on that particular day. He had a captive audience and wasn’t about to waste the opportunity to run his mouth. Cletus was quite the drama queen and liked to make ridiculous statements that made me want to laugh out loud several times. I’ve referenced my favorite Cletus-ism before.

On Sunday, our class went to the firing range. We had to present and register our guns at the beginning of the day. Cletus took one look at my gun and said, “This gun is way too big for your hands, little lady.” I had to restrain myself from telling him it wasn’t too big to shove up his fat chauvinist butt since he could have failed me which would have meant no permit. So I bit my tongue and soldiered on and passed the class. After paying even more money (and an ugly fingerprinting incident at my local DMV we’ll discuss at another time) I was the proud owner of my handgun carry permit. So if, heaven forbid, the shit hits the street this weekend on my road trip, I’ll be prepared!!

-- Haiku Hannah

We Don’t Usually Need to Treat Diabetes With Oxygen

Last Friday, a woman died of complications from diabetes and heart disease aboard an American Airlines flight from Port Au Prince, Haiti, to JFK in New York. She began feeling ill and very thirsty immediately after eating the in-flight meal. She rapidly deteriorated to the point of needing oxygen, which one might think would have clued the flight attendants in to the fact that it was more serious than most passengers’ reactions to the cardboard airline food.

When the passenger, who was actually a nurse herself, requested oxygen from a flight attendant, she responded (in her medical opinion?!) "OK, but we usually don't need to treat diabetes with oxygen, but let me check anyway and get back to you." A spokeswoman for the union representing American's attendants on the flight also noted that "Flight attendants are trained not to automatically give oxygen to every passenger who requests it but instead use airline criteria to judge when it's needed." Airline criteria?! Meaning the same flight attendants who can't manage to bring you a second beer with dinner are the ones who are going to decide whether you get oxygen, most likely based on the same policy, i.e.: Do I really want to get her that beer, or would I rather flirt with the guy in first class? Do I really want to get him that oxygen, or would I rather finish my Sudoku puzzle?

Serious questions are now being asked about whether the flight's medical equipment was working. A pediatrician on board the plane who stepped in to assist noted that the automatic electronic defibrillator, which planes are mandated to carry, was working, but the woman's heartbeat was too weak to respond. He could not confirm or deny whether the oxygen canisters were working properly, which the woman's family denies. Interestingly, however, the oxygen on a plane is there for use in case of decompression. It can also be used for other emergencies, but presumably under the same "airline criteria" we discussed earlier.

MedAire, Inc. is a company that serves as a resource for flight attendants regarding in-flight medical events. Flight attendants with sick passengers call Good Samaritan Hospital in Phoenix, Arizona, a level-one trauma center where emergency room physicians and a service able to translate 140 languages are on call to answer questions from any of 2 million airline passengers flying at any given time. Very rarely, however, does the call result in a diversion, which is a decision made not by the doctor but by the pilot, who must consider a number of variables beyond the passenger's health, including weather conditions, remaining fuel and proximity to an airport. High Flying Bird wonders if they also consider their on-time arrival average. . . In the case of the JFK-bound flight, the pilot agreed to divert to Miami, but then continued on without stopping after the woman was pronounced dead.

High Flying Bird’s advice? Don’t fly if you’re not feeling well!

-- The Commish

From Oscars to Fresno - Highs & Lows At the End of February

The Oscars were a blast...though they are a lot more regimented than I thought. The nominated stars actually have scheduled times to appear on the red carpet so that they can have the limelight to themselves. You see a hell of a lot more on TV than you do being there. Stars go to the left. Everybody else goes to the right. We did get to meet Javier Bardem...but just got a handshake.

We were on the second level, which was better than I expect. But, as opposed to TV, you can only see the backs of their heads so you don't know who is a star and who isn't. While there are hundreds of stars, half of them you have no idea who they are. And there are thousands of non-stars. When you come in on the red carpet, they don't rush you...but, they do make you keep moving. We actually saw more red carpet action inside on the monitors than we did outside.

After the Oscars are over, they really try to hold the nobodies back. And, the stars head to the after-parties. We did get close enough to Elton John's party that you could hear him singing. Prince was supposed to be coming to Elton's party. We waited around, but I had to drive back to Fresno. He hadn't gotten there when we left.

The most fun at the Oscars is the excitement and electricity. Jon Stewart was talking with stars during the commercials. Commercial time is when you feel like you really got something by being there that people don't get watching TV.

Same Old Same Old Santa Monica Blvd.

Well LA hasn't changed. Couple of new places. Other than that its the same place. The drinks are more expensive. Same crowds same clothes same people. They've redone the Abbey. It actually looks like an abbey now. It's very nice. It's a hot spot restaurant during the day now. The food is incredible. The bartender is a "bastard in a basket," as he calls himself. Attached is his pic. He's a hoot.

Passport Expiration Dates: Don't Let The Trip Get Spoiled

My passport says it expires March 21, 2015. To me that means as long as I return to the United States of America from my fabulous destination by 11:59 p.m. (local time) on March 21, 2015, it’s all good.

As it turns out, like a big swig of chunky, spoiled milk, it could be very bad.

Some countries require that your passport be valid for up to three or six months after your scheduled departure from their country. For example, if you are headed to Israel on September 1, 2008, be sure your passport is valid until at least March 1, 2009 (if I counted correctly on my fingers). Israel is just one of the countries that require a passport be valid for six months after your scheduled return.

Before you book your next trip to a foreign destination (and I don’t mean Louisiana), check your passport expiration date, then check the specific entry and exit requirements of that country on the U.S. Department of State’s website.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

The "Sit Down, Can't Cry, Oh Lord I'm Gonna Die" Blues

We at HFB are frequently asked - why High Flying Bird?

So in a move that is hopefully fair use, we'll give you a taste of the lyrics that inspired the site name:

There's a high flyin' bird, flying way up in the sky,
And I wonder if she looks down, as she goes on by?
Well, she's flying so freely in the sky.

Lord, look at me here,
I'm rooted like a tree here,
Got those sit-down,
can't cry Oh Lord, gonna die blues

That's how we feel in our cubicles when we have no trip planned. And, before you ask, our favorite version is the one by Ritchie Havens, though Judy Henske's is a pretty close second.

High Flying Bird Endorses Hillary Clinton For President

Okay, we never saw it coming. We couldn't imagine a field where our interests were in line with Hillary Clinton's platform. We thought we were Republicans, for pete's sake. Well, not anymore.

You've read it all, you've seen it all, you don't want to have it all regurgitated for you here, so we'll just mention a few pertinent points.

- Each of these candidates and Congress would spend a whole lot (too too much) of our money. But universal health care, or some such thing, seems a better and cheaper project than continuation of the Iraq war, starting additional wars to feed the defense and oil conglomerates, and/or running around the globe trying to shove democracy down the throats of other countries, Senator McCain, friend.

- We're not wild about the complete revamping of our system espoused by Senator Obama and aren't too anxious to see it undertaken by someone with little-to-no experience. We'd love to be more specific about our Obama concerns, but until Senator Obama actually says something, we're stumped.

- And, no one wants to say it, but we will. We think Obama is a Muslim, and while we hope there is a time very soon when it is appropriate to have a Muslim president of the U.S., that time is not now.

- And everyone is saying it, and we will too. Senator McCain's is in bed, at least figuratively, with lobbyists which represent a stunning array of powerful special interests. Methinks thou doth . . .

- Senator Clinton is adamant about getting the U.S. off its addiction to oil and creating alternative methods for transporting us about our country and the globe. Senator Clinton is a consistent supporter of federal aid to Amtrack. All of that sounds like very good news for a High Flying Bird.

- We believe Senator McCain is so yesterday, so out-of-it, so contemptuous of people of faith, so in-bed with the cronies, that if he is the face of the Republican party, we want no part of it.

- Any way we slice it, Senator Clinton comes up the most moderate, least insane, and best prepared. Go Hillary.

So we voted early today, for Senator Clinton. We hope you'll take another look. It isn't over yet, and heaven help us if the day comes that she is out of this race.

This is Why People Around the Globe Hate Us, But, What Can You Do?

The United States Olympic Committee plans to bring its own food to the Olympic Games in Beijing due to fears about public health and food standards in China.

“I feel it's a pity that they decided to take their own food,” said Kang Yi, the head of the Beijing Olympic Organzing Committee food division.

What's a War Without Some Turks?

One of High Flying Bird's favorite hip and funky countries has just gotten a wee bit less safe for the backpackers and others who head there for great food, fantastic ambiance and a true welcome to all visitors save the Greeks. Unfortunately, Turkish troops have launched a ground incursion into Iraq in pursuit of separatist Kurdish rebels. Hookah smokers in Istanbul should still be fine.

In Case You're Considering a Lebanese Adventure Tour with Hizbullah

Per the Drudge Report: Hizbullah head Hassan Nasrallah on Israel: "The disappearance of Israel is an inevitable fact. It is an historical process in the region which will come to an end in several years."

Terror Threat in Delhi

An anonymous e-mail in Hindi threatened a series of terrorist attacks next week in New Delhi/NOIDA.

Stay away from places where people gather - market places, train stations, etc.

Serbs out of control (again)?

The New York Times is reporting that 100 demonstrators have set fire to the U.S. Embassy as thousands more Serbs protest the independence of Kosovo. Be careful out there if you're on the road . . .

You know it's not too late cause you'll always have a place to go when whoever's in New England's through with you

If you are ever in southern Nicaragua in the city of Diriamba and run into some children wearing caps or t-shirts proclaiming the New England Patriots the 2008 Super Bowl champions, there is a good reason why. Reuters is reporting that the NFL has partnered with World Vision, a humanitarian organization, to distribute the merchandise of the losing team (which is manufactured in advance of the big game) to needy children around the world. I for one think this is an excellent idea and a great use of the merchandise. So if you encounter those children on your trip to Diriamba don't feel the need to point out their shirts and caps have incorrect information on them. Instead, use the opportunity to pause and reflect on the beautiful perfection that was this year's Super Bowl. The underrated, upstart New York Giants charging their way to victory over the undefeated, cheating Patriots was one for the ages. It will be an unexpected bonus to your trip to Nicaragua.

-- Haiku Hannah

Bye-Bye Castro, Hello Cuba!

The top story in the news today is Fidel Castro’s resignation as President of Cuba and commander-in-chief of its armed forces, ending “nearly a half-century of iron-fisted rule that inspired revolutionaries but frustrated 10 U.S. presidents,” according to CNN. In addition to the obvious political impact, Castro’s resignation may also open up a whole new world for travel. The island lies just off the southern tip of Florida, so it will be a short hop from Miami to Havana, where High Flying Birds can immerse themselves in the culture and history of a country that has been forbidden and mysterious for over 40 years. But where to go and what to do, other than the Bay of Pigs and Guantanamo?

San Cristobal de la Habana Villa, the Old City of Havana, definitely looks like it’s not to be missed. The city was founded in 1519 and still retains many of its old Spanish vestiges, such as the port, the Plaza de Armas and Cathedral Square. This High Flying Bird is looking forward to the Isla de la Juventud, as well, which was discovered by Columbus in 1492. Characterized by luxuriant vegetation and hills, it is the land of ceramics and citrus fruits. It is also the site of the Presidio Modelo, where Fidel and his pals were once held captive. The beaches of the island are supposed to be as impressive as the jungles, so there should be lots of opportunity for adventure.

Even non-smokers might be interested in the cigar tours of the famous Habano region, which takes visitors to the native tobacco region, where the residents themselves impart the history and culture of the area, as well as demonstrate the rituals of smoking the finest cigars in Cuba.

Being an island, of course, Cuba is surrounded by 200 natural bays and 600 beaches. Most are protected by coral reefs, with the water temperature hovering between 73 and 86 degrees. As one might expect, it is a diver’s paradise. There are more than 500 varieties of fish, crustaceans, sponges, mollusks and coral species in the 15 government-protected diving zones in the country. Fishing is also available year ‘round in the lakes, rivers and reservoirs of Cuba, where bass are plentiful. And for all those who remember Santiago in Ernest Hemingway’s classic, The Old Man and the Sea, never fear, Cuba’s salt-water fishing remains top-notch.

The U.S. embargo is still in place, but if it's ever lifted, you might want to include Cuba in your next discussion of tropical-beach vacation plans, with a dash of history.

-- The Commish

Snores on a Plane or How the Cusack Method Didn’t Work But Hopefully Bananas Will

I simply cannot sleep on planes. This is not to say I haven’t done the head-bob-back-with-snore-choke maneuver, particularly on return flights from Vegas. But on Transatlantic flights, when the lights dim and everyone snuggles beneath their germy blue blankets, I am wide awake, fretfully praying for a sleep that never comes.

Other than the occasional over-the-counter pain reliever, I try and avoid pills (keeping wine as my primary drug of choice). However, before a trip to London the first week of September 2001, I read an interview with John Cusack and, as I recall, the question of whether he sleeps on planes came up. He said, yes, and that his secret was Excedrin PM (again, this is as I recall, so if I am incorrect, John Cusack, please, by all means, call me and we’ll discuss over a romantic dinner). So, relying on all things Cusack, I dutifully took an Excedrin PM. While I did not fall asleep on the plane, I was incredibly drowsy and bleary-eyed for the business meeting I had two hours after landing, so I had that going for me.

As we all know, that next week of September 2001 forever changed all things travel. Personally, I vowed to stay awake and vigilant on all flights. If you're sleeping, my friend, you’re sleeping with the terrorists!

But that was seven years ago and I need to sleep.

The Cusack Method having failed, I researched “natural” alternatives. I know many swear by melatonin supplements but, as I discovered, there are a small percentage of us who have adverse reactions to melatonin. In my case, it produced tiny men with razor-sharp machetes slashing and hacking at the interior of my stomach. Doing additional research, I came across a wealth of fantastic ideas such as “turn off the overhead light” and “upgrade to business or first class”.

Oh, how I longed for the simplicity of a Cusack (a Cusack that worked).

But, then, I happened upon a Los Angeles Times article with a few truly interesting suggestions (looking past the revolutionary “fasten your seatbelt”). For my upcoming Transatlantic flight, I plan to follow the Times’ tips and do the following:

+ Eat bananas, which the Times articles describes as “practically a sleeping pill in a peel”.

+ Eat a handful of “snooze-inducing” almonds.

+ Eat a turkey sandwich on whole wheat bread which “may be one of the best sleep inducers in the sky.”

Granted, I may be popping out of my pants by the time I reach Europe, but hopefully I’ll be asleep and won’t care. Before I doze off, I’ll make sure I’m tastefully covered by my germy blue blanket.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

Rocking the Sheltering Sky

The night went by slowly; yet to Port, watching the road was hypnotic rather than monotonous. If he had not been journeying into regions he did not know, he would have found it insufferable. The idea that at each successive moment he was deeper into the Sahara than he had been the moment before, that he was leaving behind all familiar things, this constant consideration kept him in a state of pleasurable agitation.

- Paul Bowles, The Sheltering Sky

Teacher don't you fill me up with your rules everybody knows that smoking ain't allowed in school

The Associated Press reports that Sheraton Hotels and Resorts are going to ban smoking in more than 300 hotels and resorts in Canada, the Caribbean and the United States.  So much for the land of the free.  What's next?  Are they going to ban drinking?  How about fattening foods?  Knives kill people.  How about we ban those from hotels?  You'll just have to pick up that steak and gnaw on it.  But WAIT!  That could lead to choking, which is also bad for your health.  So let's ban the steak too!  What about the hotel swimming pools?  People have been known to drown.  We'd better ban those as well!  You can't be too careful in a nanny state!  I've never smoked a cigarette in my life, but I would like to have the option to light up in my hotel room if the mood strikes me.  What say you my fellow travelers?  

-- Haiku Hannah

The Large Row-Mate Dilemma

As I boarded the miniature regional jet for my short American flight from Dallas/Fort Worth to Houston Hobby last week, I saw, with a sinking feeling, that the woman in the window seat next to my aisle seat was rather large. And as y’all know, those planes are like sardine cans, with small, cramped seats to begin with.

When I got to my tiny seat, the large woman announced that she had put her large bag under the seat in front of me, so mine would just have to go under the seat in front of her. Even though it’s just a 50 minute flight, 1 hour and 10 minutes gate to gate, and even though I may be 40, I still need my iPod, my PSP, and my Frommer’s Budget Travel and National Geographic Adventure magazines, as well as my constant bottle of water, close at hand (I’m not weird, just gifted). So I explained, very nicely and reasonably, that yes, I did mind if her enormous bag was in front of my seat, as I would need to get in and out of my bag during the flight to get my iPod, PSP, etc... After shooting me an extremely hostile look that was meant to change my mind, and after much huffing and puffing, she was able to extract her oversize bag from under that seat and maneuver it to a position somewhat between the two seats. I then realized what her initial hope had been—that I would just put my bag in the overhead compartment, as there really wasn’t room for any bag in front of her. Now, why she didn’t stow hers overhead is a mystery to me, because she never got a thing out of it. But I wasn’t asking after what transpired next.

Once the baggage issue was resolved, I was finally able to take my seat and get out of the aisle so other passengers could board. I reached for the seat belt and realized that the arm rest wasn’t down. I started to put it down, but the large woman wanted it up, I assume so that she could have half of my seat. I told her, again very nicely and reasonably, that I thought it was a safety rule that the armrests had to be down. Of course, I don’t know if that’s true, but I was trying to be diplomatic. She gave me another glare, but ultimately acquiesced.

For the remainder of the flight, she read her magazine with one arm stretched over the armrest practically in my lap and moved around constantly to show me how uncomfortable she was. I just tried to ignore the whole performance, listening to my tunes and reading about adventures that I wished I was on rather than in the situation that I was, while hanging halfway into the aisle on the other side.

So, High Flying Birds, how do you handle these situations? Should I have put my bag overhead to begin with? Left the armrest up? Made a big deal of her size and gotten the flight attendant involved? Called her names and shamed her into staying on her side? What would you have done?

-- The Commish

Movies to Set the Travel Mood

Before any big holiday trip, my destination becomes my overwhelming obsession. While I try to avoid eating foods indigenous to the region – a traveler’s version, I suppose, of no sex before marriage (why eat a beignet in Austin on Thursday when you’re in New Orleans on Friday?) – I do satisfy my voracious appetite for all things regional with movies.

Sure, the unending web searches and scouring of guidebooks are a given, but ramping up to departure I immerse myself in movies set in my destination. While some locations are obviously easier to find as movie settings than others, you truly can find movies set just about anywhere in the word. Thanks to Last Holiday with Queen Latifah, for example, I have my travel movie if I ever visit Kar Valy.

In just 10 days (but who’s counting?), I leave for Paris. Thusly, I am breaking out my repertoire of favorite movies set in Paris. Film snobs please take note, you can tell me about Truffaut’s “The 400 Blows” until you are bleu in the face, but I’m not interested in the “real” side of Paris. Keep your grey and gritty. I want sparkly movies filled with art shots and pretty people sitting in cafes or strolling the Seine. Given these general parameters and, without further adieu, I give you my current top five movies to get me in the Paris mood:

Amelie. A whimsical tale of a shy waitress set in the Montmartre area of Paris, famous for its artist community – Dali, Monet, Picasso, and van Gogh all worked or lived there at some point – and, of course, for the white-domed Roman Catholic basilica, Sacre Couer which sits at the highest point in Paris. French with English subtitles.

Moulin Rouge. This is definitely a Paris of make-believe and fantasy, but I don’t care! That's how I feel about Paris and it makes me want to sing! Starring The Future Mr. Clear Plastic Bag, Ewan McGregor, and a not-yet-botoxed Nicole Kidman, this is a cherry flambé of a movie that leaves you on a sugary high.

Mon Meillur Ami (My Best Friend). To win a bet, arrogant and friendless antiques dealer Francois must produce a “best pal” in 10 days. His quest takes him through the streets of Paris with a trivia-loving taxi driver. French with English subtitles.

Before Sunset. Starring Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy this one is a “talkie” to be sure, but all that talking is done while Ethan and Julie stroll the streets of Paris, linger in cafes, and even take a boat trip down the Seine. I never dreamed I would be recommending an Ethan Hawke movie, but that’s the power of Paris.

C'était un Rendez-Vous (It Was a Date). A short film made in 1976, it shows about an 8 minute (fast) drive through Paris at 5:30 a.m. It was shot in a single take with a camera mounted on the front bumper of a Mercedes-Benz (the director later overdubbed with a Ferrari soundtrack). Basically, it’s a race through the streets of Paris. Watch out little bread truck! You, too, pigeons! No waiting on your Netflix mail delivery for this one, watch it right now!

-- Clear Plastic Bag

Doing the B and B

For all our gal pals who long for the romantic weekend at a bed and breakfast, Chattanooga, Tennessee has an offering to satisfy most every taste. I know, I know, where in the hell is Chattanooga, Tennessee? Trust me on this one, it is worth googling to find out.

The Bluff View Inn located in the art of the Art District will delight the girly girls who can choose from a variety of rooms aptly named for local dignitaries and decorated with hardwood floors, Persian rugs, gas fireplaces, oversized jetted tubs, and the obligatory B&B focal point – really great beds. After all, it’s not called a “breakfast and bed. We stayed in the T.C. Thompson suite complete with a full kitchen, two fireplaces, oversized jetted tub, and balcony.


As always, breakfast is included in the room rate and it is worth every penny. The Back Inn Café overlooking the river is a delightfully sunny place for a leisurely breakfast that is not only delicious but presented so beautifully it warrants a moment of respect in and of itself. I can, however, also recommend breakfast in bed wth champagne and dark chocolate. What could be better than that for high flying birds?

Chatanooga’s Art District is a surprising hip and cool place. Stroll over to Rembrandt’s coffee house right next door to the Inn or hop in the car for a short drive to Caffeine. Rembrandt’s also caters to the chocoholic with homemade chocolates, pastries, and bread. High Flying Bird highly recommends taking your latte (or glass of wine) and strolling through the contemporary sculpture garden that hangs on the bluff overlooking the river.

Take your time wandering through the Art District which looks like a small Italian village until you come to the Museum of American Art which will keep you occupied for an entire afternoon. Dinner is available at either the Back Inn Café for fine dining or Tony’s, a wonderful Italian restaurant. Although the wait on a Saturday night is over an hour at Tony’s, serendipity bestows upon guests at the Inn the next available table regardless of when you arrive. We recommend the build-your-own pasta dishes. Choose from black pepper fettucine with spicy Italian sausage or the rosemary chicken ravioli with a gorgonzola cheese cream sauce. Either one with a nice Chianti in front of a roaring fire doesn’t suck, my friends as Evil John McCain might say.

Best of all, you can roll yourself back to your room which is just a few steps away.

Indique, So Chic My Sweet

If there’s one thing for sure it’s that it’s tough to get good Indian food in the middle of the country, so whenever High Flying Bird heads to one of the coasts, we land at whatever Indian we can find. In Washington D.C., that’s Indique. With a décor that takes you to the balcony of the Lake Palace Hotel floating on Lake Piccola in Udaipur, and vegetarian dishes that are so light and delightful you won’t miss the meat, the restaurant (which does have plenty of meat entrees) is directly across from the Cleveland Park Metro stop on the red line. Absolute don’t miss: the mini-dosa first plate – lighter than air lentil pancakes stuffed with spiced potatoes and other veggies, served with several delicious chutneys.
www.indique.com

Essentially Yours

I’m traveling to Scottsdale tonight and packing for the trip reminded me of my list of essentials for any type of travel.

1. iPod – This one is so obvious, it’s almost embarrassing to include it on a essentials list. But if you are one of the five people in America who does not have one yet ---- buy one immediately. They are worth every penny. And once you buy one, you don’t even have to spend more money to fill it with something to listen to because (1) iTunes is a free download (2) you can add music to it from CDs you already own and (3) there are enough free podcasts (including High Flying Bird’s very own – available now for download on iTunes) out there to keep you entertained for hours. iPods can also be used to block out unwanted conversations with fellow travelers or screaming children.
2. hand sanitizer or wipes – Hello, my name is Hannah and I’m a germaphobe. Even if you don’t have my germ issues, you never know when you are going to eat some Cheetos or a candy bar (okay now I’m hungry) and need to clean the DEAFCON 1-strength synthetic cheese powder (mmmm, I’m definitely hungry now) or chocolate off your hands with no water available.
3. paperback book – If you are the type of person who doesn’t like to read, just leave now. Your kind isn’t welcome on High Flying Bird.
4. rain slicker – A rain jacket with a hood can be a lifesaver. It’s easier to pack than an umbrella and can be used as an extra layer of warmth in a dry but cool situation. A thin rain slicker helped me survive an unexpected drop in temperatures at a Rolling Stones stadium concert once. (My boyfriend Charlie Watts would have been devastated if I’d left early.) Another rain slicker saved my life during a trip to Jamaica one year during Christmas and New Years a/k/a “the rainy season”. If you are one of those women who thinks she is too cool to wear a hood, you don’t need to be traveling and should just stay home in a climate controlled environment.
5. snacks – I always have some snacks in my bag. Candy, granola bars, crackers, dried fruit, peanuts, etc. You never know when you are going to be traveling with people on a totally different feeding schedule than you or when you won’t have time to stop in the airport between delayed flights and pick up something to eat or when the obnoxious airline will run out of the meals available for purchase on the plane by the time they get to your seat in the back of coach (not that I’m naming names US AIR).
6. True Lemon – I like to have fresh lemon in my water and in my Diet Coke. I’ve found a good alternative when traveling is True Lemon. It is crystallized lemon that is available in individual packets (www.truelemon.com). I wasn’t as impressed with the True Lime, but you might feel differently.
7. gum – Gum is always good for general breath freshening and to help with pressure problems in your ears on flights. In the immortal words of The Geek in “Sixteen Candles”, “Fresh breath is a priority in my life.”
8. cell phone charger – Don’t ever leave your cell phone charger in your checked luggage. Always carry it on with you. You never know when you will get stuck in some airport for hours or even overnight and need to have a charged cell phone so you can call your friends and family to bemoan the fact that you are stuck in the airport.
9. pashmina-type wrap – I love these things. They are large enough to be a blanket if you are cold and small enough to act as a scarf. And they fold up into nothing and aren’t full of germs like those nasty airplane blankets (see 2. above). If you are ever in Vegas, they have a kiosk in The Forum Shops at Caesar’s Palace that has every color in the rainbow, and they are only $10 each. I believe they also sell fairly cheap versions in some airport gift shops.

I hope my essentials list will help you in your future travels. In the words of the offensive redneck who taught my handgun carry permit class, “When the shit hits the street, you got to be prepared!!”

-- Haiku Hannah

Tough to cope without some fine dining on your bottom of the earth trek? Kaupe you shall!

Ready for a fantastic small but elegant restaurant close to the bottom of the earth? Kaupe, located in Ushuaia Argentina, the southernmost city in the world is widely considered the best restaurant around. Don't let the locals wandering this hotspot convince you that this place ain't all that. The digs are in a small house with large picture windows overlooking the Beagle Channel; a little hard to find since it easily blends in with the surrounding houses, but well worth the hunt. Although this restaurant is expensive by Argentine standards, it is still a bargain for the traveling American looking for a fine meal.

Important payment note: Frommer’s review says the restaurant accepts MC, V, AE – not true. Almost all of Argentina is loyal to Visa. You can throw away your Master Card and feel confident leaving home without your AmEx, as long as you have a Visa. Further note: many of the credit card slips do not provide a line to add tips since tips are customarily left in cash only, so bring a little scratch even if you have a Visa.

http://www.kaupe.com.ar/

- Travel Monkey

World Series of Travel

Watching the Super Bowl on TV on Sunday night from my living room couch, bereft of company and/or party food, I suddenly longed for Andy’s Club at the Ramada Inn in Jasper, Texas.

Last October, I had to travel to Jasper, in deep East Texas. Jasper is known far and wide as the Jewel of the Forest. Guidebooks reference the piney woods and beautiful lakes in the surrounding area. But my fondness for Jasper is based on my visit to that hidden gem Andy’s Club the night the Boston Red Sox won the 2007 World Series.

When I opened the door to my room, I knew, with its green indoor-outdoor carpet, thin-as-a-blanket bedspread covered with yellow cabbage roses and leaking faucet, that was no place to watch a championship game. So I donned my No. 18 Sox jersey and trooped across the parking lot to the hotel bar, Andy’s Club, where the game was on the big screen, but the sound was down due to the live performance of the three-man local cover band that played there every Sunday night. I was warmly welcomed, with the bartender immediately exhorting me to try out the free buffet (three large pizzas in Pizza Inn boxes on the pinball machine). She brought me a Bud Light and introduced me to the other two patrons. None of them were interested in the game, but the second I walked in they all became Red Sox fans, including the band.

Not to say that any of the regular Sunday night bar activity changed. Lonnie, a chemical manufacturing company rep who was in town overseeing a bug-spraying operation, came in around the 3rd inning and ordered shots of Jack Daniels with Bud chasers. He was screaming “It’s all about the music” and bought the entire bar (all six of us, including the band) drinks several times before he called it a night. And the band still played its power ballads as if the bar were full. Although at one point they played and re-played the opening bars of “Is This Love” for an eternity until the lead man was satisfied with the chord progression.

I had only planned to stay for a beer or two, but wound up still on my stool when Jonathan Pappelbon got the last out in the 9th inning. My new friends were cheering as loud as I was, even the band, which had stopped to watch the bottom of the last inning. Random experiences like that are a reminder to slow down, spend some time getting to know people, and enjoy the adventure. And High Flying Bird highly recommends Andy's Club if you ever find yourself in Jasper, Texas.

-- The Commish

Clarks Privo Opanka: The Ultimate Travel Shoe

While we agonize over maximum ensembles from minimum clothing (is this an "all brown" trip or an "all black" one?), 3 oz containers, and heavy coat vs. light coat, the most important decision we make before we get on that plane, that train, or that automobile, is which shoes we'll be wearing. It doesn't matter how thermo-correctly you've layered, if your feet are blistered and throbbing. Doesn't matter if you're stylishly black-turtleneck or stylishly brown-turtleneck for that one nice restaurant you've booked, if you're wearing white tennis shoes.

Before a trip to Barcelona in November 2006, I purchased a pair of Clarks Privo "Opanka" clogs.

And my travel life has never been the same.

I walked for miles and miles and miles in these shoes in absolute comfort. My feet are notorious for blistering and bleeding after long days of walking and exploring, as anyone who has ever shared a hotel room with me and witnessed the podi-carnage can attest, but not in these babies. It was like furry little cushiony kittens had curled and cuddled around my feet and allowed no harm to befall them. Plus, and here's the true highlight of these shoes, they have a slight heel to them so you can go right from day into evening without looking like a dorky tourist at the bar. I recommended these shoes to High Flying Bird before her trip to India and we now have another true believer.

But, now, the bad news.

These shoes were a "one-off". Clarks doesn't make them anymore. So why even tell you this? Because, it may not be too late. There are some online stores who have some left in stock. I have ordered additional pairs (they only had in brown, but take what you can get) from Footwearetc.com and I believe there is a store in New Hope, Pennsylvania that may have some but they do not have an online store, you'll need to call and order. There may be more hiding out there. Google Clarks Privo Opanka clogs. For the love of Feet, hurry!


-- Clear Plastic Bag

VOTE FOR YOUR TOP TEN ON DA ROAD SONGS

You know the ones we want - the "get your motor running," the "oh-ah, i just died in your arms tonight," the "i need to know, i need to know, if you think you're gonna leave then you'd better say so," the "and the summer became the fall, i was not ready for the winter, it makes no difference at all, cause i wear boots all summer long," the "i've been every where man," the- well you get it. vote early and often by posting a comment, and we'll post the top ten for inclusion on your road tape, er, cd er, ipod.

Rebels Marching On Chad. Mr. Clooney, We're Getting Lost on What We Should Be Doing!

Thousands of rebels are marching towards the presidential palace in Chad. Under a 30-year-old agreement, the French military gives logistical and intelligence support to Chad's government, and France claims the rebel attack is an attempt by "armed forces from the outside" to seize power. Specifically, Chad's Foreign Minister has accused Sudan of instigating the attack to stop the deployment of a EU force which Sudan does not want in Chad because "it would shine a light on all the genocide that is taking place in Darfur orchestrated from Chadian territory." Apparently, both the Chadian and Sudanese governments support rebels in each others' territory.

Podcast Episode 2: Amtrak Cross Country with Katsy

Katsy joins High Flying Bird to give us the low-down on the cross country train trip. Come on, you know you've always wanted to go cross country. Here's your chance to learn how to do it within your budget and time constraints.

Oh Electric Car - Ou Etes Vous?

Exxon Mobil Corp. has just cleared the largest annual profit by a U.S. company — $40.6 billion.

Pie in Old Blighty

Today is National Pie Day. Not that I ever need incentive to think about pie, but this sanctioned celebration of all things pie got me to pondering the best pie I've ever had.

How would I decide? I love pies. All sorts of pies. If given a choice between pie and cake, I will always take the pie. Sifting through memories of flaky crusts (or maybe dutch crumbles), coconut creams and sweet-tart cherries, my decision was much easier than I had imagined. The best pie I ever had was in early September 2001 in London, England. Traveling alone, and having walked until I was exhausted, it was dark, and I was lost. A warm glow from down the street led me to a neighborhood (unknown) restaurant. Not a pint-filled pub of my colonist dream, just a (very) plain neighborhood restaurant.

There it was on the laminated menu. Apple pie. I'm always keen to not eat traditionally American food while traveling, but my blistered feet and throbbing loneliness demanded the comfort of pie.

It wasn't the crust (too thick) and it wasn't the filling (too gelatinous) and, although I did enjoy the pool of creme anglaise it was plopped on top of, it was strictly its state of pieness that makes it the best pie I've ever had.

The best Chinese food I've ever had was in Rome. But I'll save that travel tale for National Chinese food day.

-- Clear Plastic Bag

oh! to be a high flying and free-breathing bird

The amazing Neti Pot is for all travelers who suffer from congestion or post nasal drip upon landing in unfamiliar climates. A sinus headache can cripple even the most adventurous traveler, but we just tried jala neti - the Indian Ayurvedic practice of using a small pot for nasal irrigation by pouring warm salty water into one nostril and allowing it to drain from the other - and yes, we heard about it from Oprah. But oh boy, do we believe! Come on - don't be scared - visit http://www.sinucleanse.com/ to see a full demonstration. Once you get the hang of it, you won’t leave home without it. Of course, make sure you are somewhere that you are willing to drink the water before pouring it in your nose.

Make a run for the border

You won't want to miss Santa Fe Steakhouse, a McAllen, Texas restaurant and bar where you'll find everyone who is anyone. But the in-crowd is not why High Flying Bird hit Santa Fe last Wednesday night while down south on business; the espresso-encrusted beef filet was.

Feast in the dining room and finish up with live music in the cantina. With reasonable prices, fantastic food and a happening bar, Sante Fe Steakhouse is almost reason enough to head to the Valley.

Santa Fe Steakhouse 1918 S 10th Street, McAllen, TX 78503 (956) 630-2331